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THE 






ITOBACCO GROWER'S! 



<3HT 1 1> li: . 



COMPILED AND PUBLISHED BY JAMES' MOSSM AN, 

WESTERVILLE, FRANKLIN COUNTY, OHIO. 



•' PRINTED AT THE COLUMBUS GAZETTE OFFICE. ^ 

K 1863. i4 

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THE 



TOBACCO GROWER'S 



C5-XJII> I^. 



'j^-^C 1 8 'r e; 



COMPILED AND PUBLISHED BY JAMES MOSSMAN, 

WESTERVILLE, FRANKLIN COUNTY, OHIO. 



coi^xJiycBXJS'. 

PRINTED AT THE COLUMBUS GAZETTE OFFICE. 

1863. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 18G3, 

BY JASIES MOSS MAN, 

In the Clerk's Office for the Southern District of Ohio. 



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THE 



TOBACCO GROWER'S GUIDE. 



Tobacco properly cultivated and richly cured, is a source of great 
profit to the man that grows it, as long as men will use the weed > 
but it ought to be every man's duty to discourage the rising genera- 
tion from the needless habit of their forefathers. 

The disorganized condition of our country and the prevailing high 
price of the weed, will need many new hands for its cultivation, to 
keep old men from longing for their cuds. 

From the want of proper knowledge of the raising and curing of 
Tobacco, outside of the Slave States, I was persuaded to publish 
this work. In my judgment, a few short plain rules, established by the 
best opinions and practices of the present age, better adapted to meet 
the present wants than volumes of historical accounts of the customs 
and practices of raising and curing Tobacco for hundreds of years 
past. A boy could solve sums without rules with as much success* 
as a man could succeed in raising and curing Tobacco without a 
proper knowledge. The farmer who cultivates the crop, if be would 
succeed, must consider well what he has to do, and when it ought to 
be done, and stand ready to do it in its proper time. When old land 
is planted, it must have the choicest manure on the farm. Then he 
has the ground to plow and prepare, and when the time comes to 
transplant, the plants must be set, no matter what stands in the way. 
Then the plants killed by grubs, or those that fail from other causes, 



4 

must be reset immmediately. The transplanting and early tillage, 
coming upon the farmer as it does, from the first of June to the first 
of July, it finds the farmer, with his hands full, tilling his corn, and 
his wheat and grass getting white for the harvest, though the topping^, 
suckering and much of the worming is done after his wheat crop is 
gathered. 

THE SEED BED. 

In selecting a spot of ground to make the seed bed, choose one 
with a warm exposure of moist, black ground, that can be well 
drained. The ground should be new, rich, and free from grass or 
weed seed, for the bed can not be weeded without disturbing the 
plants more or less. 

In preparing the ground for the seed, spade it up deep and fork 
it up perfectly mellow, and remove all roots and all undecomposed 
objects ; then throw it up in beds four feet wide, with paths at the 
sides, so as to enable the hand to weed the Plants from both sides 
of the bed, and keep them perfectly clean. After the bed is forked 
up perfectly mellow and loose, lay on some dry brush and litter and 
burn them. The object of this is, to destroy insects, grass and weed 
seed. The ashes add fertility to the soil, the charcoal gives it a 
dark, warm color, and makes a most friendly preparation for the 
fine seeds. If the bed is stirred any after it is burned, foi'k it up so 
as not to turn the top soil under. 

Allowing about a square rod for each acre intend for tobacco, it 
requires about a large thimble full of seed to the rod, though when 
planting many acres you can allow less ground for the seed bed 
For every thimble full of seed mix it with one pint of ashes or fine 
soil that will crumble in the hand, and sow it broad-cast. After the 
seed has been thus sown, rake the surface of the bed over very 
slightly ; then tread it down with the feet, or spat it down with the 
spade ; or, a better way is, to take a piece of plank, twelve or four- 
teen inches square, put a handle in it like a churn-dasher, then walk 
backward, spatting the bed down evenly, in order that the ground 
may at once adhere closely to the seed. If your ground does not 
become dry enough to spade up in the spring, you can burn the 
brush on it first and dig it up slightly afterwards. The beds must 



be kept in a moist state from the time the seed is sown until the 
young plants are large enough to remove. 

Cover the beds with some fine brush, so as to partly shade it 
The brush givfcs protection from frost, dashing rains and drying 
winds. 

Sow the seed in the spring, as soon as the ground becomes suffi- 
ciently warm and dry. 

Keep your outlet drains as deep as you spaded your beds, so that 
the ground will not settle too compact by being filled with water- 
After the plants are well started, take off the brush and weed them 
and thin them out when crowded. You can promote a more vigor- 
ous growth by occasional watering with dilute liquid manure, or 
spread on some strong manure, finely pulverized, from time to time 
as they are able to bear it. The largest will be ready to transplant 
about the first to the middle of June, in latitude 40 deg., the time 
varying as you go North or South. The transplanting continues for 
some days, or even weeks, according to the weather. The best soil 
is a light, mellow and deep sandy loam, if sufficiently enriched. New 
land will require less manure. A good black loam I consider next 
best, if sufiiciently drained. Lime soil is not good. Heavy loams 
produce large crops of tobacco, but not so fine a quality. Choose a 
location that is not exposed to early frosts ; low swamp holes are bad 
on this account. First rate corn land is good tobacco land. Good 
drainage, sufiiciently manured, well aired and pulverized, is the ne- 
cessary preparation of the soil for an abundant crop. Locations, 
subject to hail storms late in the season, are very destructive to the 
tobacco crop. In preparing the soil, it can be manured to most any 
extent : apply your coarsest manure before plowing the first time and 
your finest at the second. Early in the spi'ing plow your ground deep, 
harrow fine and smooth, and if lumpy, roll so that the soil will keep moist 
and give the weed seed a better chance to germinate. Let it re- 
main in this condition until the plants have attained about half their 
size for transplanting, or when the leaves are the size of the thumb 
nail. Then where sub-soil has been turned up, apply from fifteen 
to twenty bushels of hard wood ashes to the acre, and as much more 
fine manure as you like ; then plow and harrow again, letting it re- 
main until the time to prepare it for the plants about the first of 



June, then plow and harrow the third time ; after that take a two- 
horse plow, throw your ground up in beds four feet wide; then if 
you want to plow your tobacco both ways, make it crosswise with a 
light sled, three and a half feet apart. If you do not want to plow 
both ways, the plants can be set from two and a half to three feet 
apart in the beds. If the soil is not sufficiently mellow, each place 
for the plant can be forked or chopped up with a long bladed hoe. 
This is much cheaper than our Southern plan of making up hills by 
hand, and better than planting on a flat surface. 

The plants when set should be about the size of cabbage plants, 
or have four leaves, the size of a silver dollar. The time for set- 
ting commences about the 10th of June, in latitude 40 deg., and the 
15th, in latitude 41 deg., varying about five days every degree of 
latitude. North or South, The plants are liable to be cut by the cut 
worms until they get well to growing. These worms generally cease 
their work in June, when the warm, showery and growing weather 
sets in ; it is best therefore to watch when they quit working on the 
young $00, as the most proper time to commence setting the plants. 
In taking the plants from the seed bed, you take a small, sharp pad- 
dle of iron or wood, about an inch wide, and stick it down by the 
side of the plants ; give it a pry to loosen the ground, at the same 
time taking hold of the plants with the other hand, carefully hold- 
ing the leaves close towards each other, gently pulling them up and 
placmg them in a basket to carry to the field. After taking up 
those that can be planted during the day, water the nursery that the 
earth may adhere to those remaining. The evening is the best time 
for setting out the plants ; but, where a large field is to be cultiva- 
ted, it will be well to plant both morning and evening. Plants set 
out in the morning, unless in cloudy or rainy weather, should be cov- 
ered immediately, and the same should be done with those that are 
planted the evening previous, should the day open with a clear sun- 
shine. Some large leaves will answer the purpose very well, but it 
is better to mow a few swaths in thick, short grass, wet it thorough- 
ly and use it to cover the plants. 

You must look over your fields every morning, for some days, to 
look after the worms, carrying a few plants with you to reset, if any 
have been destroyed by the worms or failed to grow. You will of- 



ten find the worms close by the injured plants, under ground, which 
should be destroyed. They resemble the grub worm. Move the 
plants for resetting with a ball of earth attached, that they may be 
less put back, and that the field may be more even in its appearance. 
In setting the plants, you take a blunt, sharp stick, punch it in the 
hill, making a hole, then take the plant between the thumb and fin- 
gers and set it in the hole, pressing the soil to the roots with the 
oth«^r hand, being careful to keep the bud just above the ground. 
It is a good plan to make a mark, descending from it to the water 
furrow, with the planting stick. The object of this mark is, to drain 
off the water and prevent the soil from running together and becom- 
ing hard about the plants by hard rains, which are sometimes very 
injurious. 

CULTIVATION. 

It is important in the early growth of the plant, to plow and work 
the soil deep once or twice, so that when it is ripening, the ground 
will be broken deep and fine and be less affected by drouth ; this 
should be done before the roots have made much progress. Hence, 
the advantage of greater distance between the rows is, it can be 
plowed and worked with less damage to the roots. In this as well 
as all other crops, if we wish a good return, we must be active with 
plow and hoe before the roots run out, that we may have the soil in 
a mellow condition for the roots to run into, not waiting for the roots 
to spread in the packed ground, and then breaking up the ground, 
roots and all trying to pulverize the ground for the roots. On our 
high land we should endeavor, by deep plowing, to counteract the 
bad effects of drouth, and on our flat lands we should aim to pre- 
vent the collection of water by drains, discharging at the lowest 
points. From the time the plants are set out, the earth around 
them should be occasionally stirred with a rake or hoe ; at first hoe 
fiat, but as soon as the leaves assume a growing disposition, begin 
gradually to draw a slight bed towards the plants, which must be 
closely examined^even while in the nursery, to destroy the numer- 
ous worms that feed upon them, cutting the stalks and gnawing the 
leaves when first set out. After the plants are too big for the plow, 
finish stirring the ground with a hoe, by drawing up good hills around 



8 

the plants. If the ground is broken and stirred deep while the 
plants are small, they will suffer but little from drouth. 

PRIMING. 

The object and meaning of this is, to strip off the under leaves of 
the plant that they may stand clear off the ground and be not in- 
jured. You commence priming when hoeing, and finish when you 
do the topping ; the plants are primed from four to eight inches 
high, six is the most proper height ; but when the plants are small, 
late in the season, it is better to prime only four inches. The ob- 
ject is, to have the leaves clear the ground. The prime leaves can 
be saved when of any size. When priming, leave a pair of leaves 
together, standing opposite on the stalk, and when topping, leave a 
pair at the top, standing the other way, that the stalk may be bal- 
anced, and have as many leaves on one side as the other. 

WHEN TO DO THE TOPPING. 

As the topping of the Tobacco Plant is all essential in order to 
promote the growth and to equalize the ripening of the leaves, I 
would observe, that this operation should, at all events, commeoce 
the instant that the bud of the Plants show a disposition to run up 
to seed. It is topped two to three feet high, and performed by nip- 
ping off the bud by the aid of the finger and thumb nail ; washing 
the hands after this in water is sometimes necessary, as the acid 
juices of the Plants otherwise would soon produce a soreness of the 
fingers. 

In topping, leave from eight to sixteen leaves, according to cir- 
cumstances and condition of the Plants and the lateness of the 
season. The less leaves you leave the larger they will grow and 
the sooner ripen. I consider from ten to fourteen leaves the mos^ 
proper number to leave on ; though some planters prime to six 
inches and top to eight leaves. When your plants are small and 
the season is far advanced, prime less, and when your Tobacco is 
large and on an extra rich ground, top higher, remembei'ing always 
to leave on about what you think will have time to ripen. 

SUCKERING. 

After the Plants have been topped, the buds in the axles of the 



leaves push forward with great vigor and must be pinched or broken 
out as fast as they appear, so that all of the strength of the sap will 
go into the leaves. 

WORMING. 

The Tobacco worm, which feeds upon the leaves, comes from the 
egg deposited on the under edge of the leaf by the hawk-moth, 
sphinges or hornblower. That begins to fly by the first of June or 
perhaps sooner. This moth is large, and has somewhat the flight of 
a small bird, quick in its motion and not very shy. It is of an ash- 
grey color, having two sets of wings.. The spread of the wings is 
from three to five inches. It flies about at dusk seeking its food, 
which is honey, from various flowers open at night. It visits potato 
blossoms, and is particularly fond of the blossoms of the Jamestown 
weed. The more of these moths that are killed, the less will be 
worms. The moth can be knocked down by watching near the 
flowers mentioned. The fields should be examined every other day, 
or at least twice a week to gather the worms. It is easy to be seen 
where the worms are making fresh cuts, and they will be found on 
the under side of the leaves. If turkeys visit the field early in the 
morning, they will destroy a great many worms. The Tobacco 
worm grows very large and looks very ugly. They are generally 
killed by pinching them between the fingers. It would be less dis- 
gusting for each one to carry a bag or pocket fastened to the side, 
and bag them for chicken meat. The most suitable persons to do 
the worming are children irom ten to fourteen years old. They can 
be encouraged by giving premiums to those that gather the most 
worms. There is also a small worm which attacks the bud of the 
plant, and which is sure destruction to its further growth ; and some 
again, though less destructive, are seen within the two coats of the 
leaf feeding, as it were, on its juices alone. 

TOBACCO SHED. 

It is necessary to have your sheds and sticks all ready before 
you begin the cutting. Sheds are built different ways ; the cheapest 
and best way to build them, is to put up a frame, either sixteen or 
twenty-four feet wide, and any length desired. "When built sixteen 



10 

feet, one length of poles will reach across ; and when built twenty- 
four feet, you set a row of middle posts through the center of the 
shed, and use two lengths of poles. The posts can be sunk in the 
ground or set on stones or brick. They are left sixteen feet high 
above ground. Cut notches in the posts every three or three and 
a half feet^ then put scantling in the notches and pin them to the 
posts. These scantling answer for the purpose of nailing the boards 
to, and also for the ends of the long poles to rest on that runs across 
^he shed. These long poles are laid crosswise every four feet. On 
these poles rest the tobacco sticks. These sticks are four feet long 
and split about three-fourths of an inch square. The sticks are 
better split than sawed, because they are not so liable to break. — 
The first row of girts or scantlings pinned to the posts should be at 
least four and a half feet from the ground, so as to leave eighteen 
inches space between the ground and the Tobacco. In putting on 
the weather boards it is a good plan to have one board to every four 
feet, hung by hinges, to open and shut, to air it. It is a good plan to 
let your weather-boards come down within fifteen inches of the 
ground, and use a swing board to open and shut as the weather may 
require it. It is necessary to have some ventilation at the roof. — 
A shed with five hanging tiers, and sixteen feet wide, will require 
about eleven or twelve feet in length for every acre of Tobacco. 

CUTTING. 

The cultivator should be on his guard as the Tobacco approaches 
cutting time and watch the change of appearance in his Tobacco 
that he may determine on the proper time to cut his crop. He 
ought never to cut his Tobacco until it comes to full maturity ; 
which is known by a change in its color, assuming the appearance 
of a dapple horse, and the leaves become mottled and of a thick 
texture and gummy to the touch, with swollen veins and tissues ap- 
parently bursting with sap, at which time the ends of the leaves by 
being doubled will break short, which they will not do to the same 
extent when green. It ought not to be cut in wet weather, when 
the leaves lose their natural gummy substance, so necessary to be 
preserved. It ought not to be frostbitten, for it destroys the strength 
turns it black and becomes brittle. The cutting is performed by 



11 

starting the knife at the top of the stalk and splitting it down to 
within three or four inches of the ground, then cut of the stalk ob- 
liquely close to the ground, strike the butt of the stalk with the 
knife to jar the loose dirt or sand off the stalk, and then turn the 
stalk top end down and let it remain so part of the day until the 
leaves become wilted. When cutting commences, procure a quan- 
tity of forked stakes, drire into the ground two rows ten or eleven 
feet apart, and lay in riders ; then on these lay the tobacco sticks 
six or seven inches apart ; then bring the Plants and hang the split 
stalks astride of these sticks six inches apart, and let it remain here 
several days until the leaves become partly dried. If it goes to rain 
it must be removed to the shed. If there comes a light rain, and 
it can not be removed to the shed, crowd it up close together until 
the rain is over, so that less rain will fall upon it. If it should hap- 
pen that you bring more Tobacco to the scaffold than you can hang 
up the same day, spread it in a row, not more than three stalks 
thick, so that it will not become too much heated and injure the To- 
bacco, over night. You go over the field several times in cutting, 
taking the ripest first. When you take the Tobacco to the shed, if 
it is some distance from the field, haul it on the wagon, leaving the 
sticks in it. Then with one person above and one below, you com- 
mence placing on the highest poles in the roof the sticks with the 
Tobacco on them. When placing the sticks on the highest poles, 
the person below can take half a dozen of the sticks with the To- 
bacco on, lay them together and fasten a rope to each end of them, 
so that the one above can pull them up by it. Lay some boards on 
the poles below the ones that you are hanging on to walk upon. — 
Place the sticks six inches apart and seven or eight Plants on a 
stick. It requires from one to two months for the stems and stalks 
to become well cured when air dried. When the Tobacco is put in 
the shed quite green, and it comes on damp, rainy weather, it may 
be necessary to make use of some artificial heat. This is done by 
means of stoves or fires made upon the ground in the Tobacco shed 
by laying two small green logs crosswise. If the sheds are long 
you can malie three fires, and if it is short you can make your fire 
lengthwise. Build the fire between the logs with dry wood, mak- 
ing a very moderate and even heat. The Plants on the first poles 



12 

above the fire should be moved to one side. Tobacco wants to be 
cured in as moderate and even a manner as possible. All high dry- 
jng winds and damp air should be excluded. If allowed to get too 
damp the leaves along the middle stem will mold, rot and drop off. 
Air drying is generally preferred, though in some localities, when 
raising a large amount, and wishing to make quick work of it, they 
fire cure it. This is done by placing it in the shed as soon as fallen 
or sufficiently wilted. Commence warming or preparing the fires 
the day after housing. The warming fires are kept up from thirty- 
six to forty hours, the mercury ranging from 100° to 150° F. ; this 
will generally bring the leaf to a drying state. The tail or end of 
the leaf now begins handsomely to curl, and then the planter must 
be wide awake. If he is careless and his fires are made too hot the 
aromatic oil passes off with the sap and smoke and he has a house 
of red or dark inferior Tobacco. If his fires are kept low, the To- 
bacco gets into a calmy sweat and the oil escapes. There is more 
danger of the former than the latter evil. There is more Tobacco 
injured by too much heat, than a want of a sufficiency. The fire 
should now be kept steady and regular, with a gradual increase of 
heat, so that in forty-eight hours the mercury will stand 150° to 
160° F. It must be kept at about that temperature until the To- 
bacco is cured. It is customary to build log fires in the shed or in 
arches running under it. 

In air curing Tobacco it requires to hang in the shed from 6ne to 
two months, or until the middle stem of the leaf has become dry 
and will break when rubbed in the hand. If you have but little 
you can take it down and strip in d0 weather as soon as the middle 
stem of the leaf is well dried ; but if you have a large quantity and 
want to do the stripping through the winter, you must let it hang 
until the main stalk is well dried, it is then taken down in a damp 
day, when it is just damp enough to handle without breaking th 
leaves. Then take it to a barn floor and put it in bulk, ranking i* 
up like cord-wood, changing ends every other course, so that it will 
bulk up level, and then cover it up with straw so as to exclude ali 
air. It will then enter into a sweat, and will keep in a pliable state 
for stripping for any length of time. You should be careful not to 
bulk it down to lay long until the stems and stalks are well dried. — 



lo 

If you bulk it when the leaves are too dry, they will break when 
bulking down. After laying a few days, you can go on with the 
strippi/ig. They are divided into three classes. The best leaves, or 
first class ; the second class, or middling, and the third class lugs, or 
ground leaves. Some make more classes and some make only two. 
The stripping is performed by taking the stalk in the left hand and 
stripping off the leaves witn the right hand, laying the stems 
straight one way, taking the lugs or ground leaves first. It is then 
tied in hanks or bundles of from four to twenty leaves. Small 
hanks are preferred, as they make a better appearance. From six 
to ten leaves make very good sized hanks. The tying of the hanks 
is performed by holding the stems of the leaves in the left hand, 
having the ends even, then turn up one of the leaves of the hank 
and double the two edges together and commence wrapping at the 
butt end of the stems and wrap down about four inches, and then 
open the hank in the middle and tuck the end of the wrapper in it, 
then draw the hank through the hand and give it a little shake to 
straighten the leaves. The hanks are put in bulk at the close of 
each day's stripping to sweat. That is to make Tobacco of them, 
for before this process, when a concentration of its better qualities 
takes place, the leaves are always liable to be affected by the weath- 
er when hanging in the shed, and can not well be considered as be- 
ing anything else than common dry leaves partaking of the nature of 
Tobacco, but not actually Tobacco. The hanks are bulked down by 
ranking them up two or three feet high, with boards placed to hold up 
the ends of the rank. If you want to make the bulks two or three feet 
wide, commence by laying two courses of hanks one on each side with 
the stem ends out, then two more on top of these by laying them in 
about four inches, so that the ends of these hanks will come out 
even to the edge of the wrapper on the first course, and then another 
until they lap in the center, laying in the same manner as you wo\Jilc]t 
fill a rick of wheat. If you have a less quantity to bulk, you ^^an 
make your bulks the thickness of the length of your hanks^ laying 
the stem end, every other course, in the opposite direction* When 
your bulks are made, cover them with some sheets or blankets so as, 
to exclude all air from it, and leaving it in this state for about forty 
days, it acquires an odor strong enough to produce saee25ing and th^ 



14 

other qualities of cured Tobacco. The process of curing may now 
be considered completed. It is now ready to be packed or prized 
for market. 

The packing for market is performed by placing the hanks in a 
hogshead close together with the stem ends against the staves. One 
man gets into the hogshead on his knees, placing them smooth and 
tight together, carrying the outside course clear around in the hogs- 
head, with the stem ends against the staves, then go around with a 
second course laying this one in about four inches from the staves5 
or so that the ends of the hanks will come out even with the wrap- 
pers on the first course, and so continue until it is filled up in the 
center ; then commence another course against the staves and so on, 
on the principle of building a round wheat stack. "When filled half 
full put on a lever or screw press and let it remain two or three 
hours, then take off" the press and fill up again, and soon until full. 
When pressed full head it up tight for market. 

PRIZE TOBACCO TO MAKE FINE FLAVORED CIGARS. 

This operation belongs to the manufacturer and not to the culti- 
vator. The process is performed by taking some of the injured 
leaves, but of the first quality, and in proportion to the quantity of 
Tobacco made, and place them in clear water, there let them remain 
until they rot, which they will do in about eight days ; next break- 
open your bulks, spread the Tobacco with the stems in one direction 
and dampen them with this water in a gentle manner, in order that 
it may not soak through the leaf, for in this case the leaf would rot, 
using a sponge or brush to dampen them with ; then hang them in 
hanks in the tobacco house for about twelve hours, in order that the 
dampness may be removed, and afterwards pack them in casks or 
(barrels and head them tight until you wish to manufacture them. — 
The object of damping the Tobacco with this water is to give it elas- 
(tioity to promote its burning free, to increase its fragrance, to give 
at an aromatic smell and to keep it always soft. This is the great 
secret of curing Tobacco for cigars properly. 

I have now said all that is necessary to guide the cultivator 
in raising and prepacjng the crop for market. I will here add a 
few words on the kinds best to cultivate this season. I would advise 



15 

cultivating mainly the large popular kinds, for few men will refu^® 
bread and go far to hunt sweetmeats when they are hungry ; so 
with Tobacco, at the present high prices, there will not be difference 
enough this year in the price of the finer flavored small kinds to 
compensate the difference in the yield. An average yield of To- 
bacco to the acre is about one thousand pounds, and it can be dou- 
bled by extra culture, or half that under shiftless care. It is now 
selling — the damaged lugs or ground leaves — at ten cents, and the 
better grades at thirty-five cents a pound wholesale. It will pay 
expenses at three cents a pound. As the last crop is small and the 
South can not add much to the new, the North will have to look to 
her own resources for a new supply, or import at an enormous ex- 
pense. Therefore, would it not be better to raise our own supply, 
than to send millions of dollars out of the country for that which 
we are so well prepared to furnish ourselves ? The cost of 
growing and preparing an acre of Tobacco well for market, is, on an 
average, about forty dollars. I would here say, he that would grow 
Tobacco, do it thoroughly. Tobacco is a very exhausting crop on 
land, and the man that gives not a watchful care of his manure piles, 
and keeps them under shelter and prevents them from washing away 
in the streams, and gives not a plentiful return to the land for that 
which he has taken away, deserves not the name of a farmer, or a 
place among men. The forsaken fields of the Carolinas illustrate 
the awful perversion of the wajes intended for man. They have 
taken with avaricious hands from the soil without returning that 
which was due, until the fields have said, I can give no more. They 
have forced their laborers to toil without wages, until they have stain- 
ed their hands and souls in the blood of oppression. They have de- 
manded the profits and control of the Government without returning 
that respect it was entitled to, and taken by force that which did not 
belong to her, until the soil that she so wrongly robbed is being 
drenched with the blood of her sons and neighbors, and brought 
misery and distress all about her. Let us give to the soil that sup- 
ports us, that which belongs to her, and deal justly to all men, that 
we may live in peace and pro^erity all^^ur days. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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INCLUDING THE 

Genuine Long Green Tobacco Seed, Connecticut Seed Leaf, Ma- 
ryland Broad Leaf, Big Frederick, and many others, 

Put in Packages containing sufficient quantity to plant one acre, 

AT 50 CENTS EACH, BY MAIL, PRE PAID. 



APPL[, P[I1R, P[ll£il, PLUM, CHfRRY TR[[S, 

AND AN ASSORTMENT OF 

Grape Vines, and other Slirubs, 

GROWN AND SOLD BY 
JAMES MOSSMIN, WESTERVILLE, FRANKLIN CO., 0. 



